Lake Tahoe & Yosemite

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Back to CaliforniaLake Tahoe & Yosemite in 1 Week

This weeklong excursion covers two of my favorite places on the planet: Lake Tahoe and Yosemite National Park. I've visited both countless times, yet each time I'm awestruck by the beauty of these mountain regions. I'd go so far as to credit them for my choice of career; the opportunity to explore natural wonders such as these is what compelled me to be a travel writer.

The trip starts in North Lake Tahoe, winds its way to South Lake Tahoe, then veers southeast along Highway 395 to Mono Lake. From there, it cuts westward on Highway 120 and heads up, up, up to the famed Tioga Pass and into Yosemite National Park. In winter months, the scenery is even more spectacular, but Tioga Pass is usually closed due to snow. The inland route, via Highway 49, will get you there in winter, but it adds about 4 hours driving time.

The quickest way to cover this ground is to fly into Reno-Tahoe International Airport and rent a car; otherwise, take Interstate 80 east from the San Francisco or Sacramento airports to Truckee. From there it's a short drive southward on Highway 89 to the north shore of Lake Tahoe. From Yosemite National Park, it's about a 3 1/2-hour drive back to San Francisco.

Be sure to pack comfortable hiking shoes, a swimsuit, a small backpack, plenty of sunscreen, a wide-brimmed hat, and spare cash for the casinos.

Day 1: Bike Ride & Slot Machines

From Tahoe City head south on West Lake Boulevard for a few miles to Sunnyside Lodge. Check in for 2 nights, make dinner reservations for tonight at the Wild Goose restaurant and Gar Woods Grill & Pier tomorrow night, then have lunch on the deck at Sunnyside and soak in the view. Drive back to Tahoe City to the Olympic Bike Shop. Rent a bike for a few hours and take the scenic paved bike path that follows West Lake Boulevard and the Truckee River. Return the bikes then drive to Wild Goose. Plan to arrive about an hour before your reservation, so you can knock down a few top-shelf margaritas while watching the sunset from the lakeside deck. After dinner, drive to the Cal-Neva Casino for some evening entertainment, and then head back to the hotel.

Day 2: Rafting & Lakeside Dining

Eat breakfast at the Fire Sign Café down the street, and then drive to Truckee River Raft Rental in Tahoe City. After a leisurely raft trip down the mostly calm, always beautiful Truckee River, have a burger and beers on the riverside deck at the River Ranch Lodge & Restaurant while waiting for the return shuttle. Next, drive to Squaw Valley and ride the cable car to High Camp, where you can explore numerous hiking trails or just relax at the Poolside Café and admire the view. Either walk or take the cable car back to the parking lot, then drive to Gar Woods Grill & Pier for dinner. (Leave time to arrive before sunset.) If you're not ready to retire after dinner, drive to the Pierce Street Annex, a local hangout for drinks and dancing.

Day 3: Picnic Lunch, Beachside Mai Tais & More Gambling

Sleep in, grab breakfast at the hotel, and check out. Stock up on sandwiches and drinks at the local deli, stuff them into a small backpack, and head south on Highway 89 toward South Lake Tahoe. Park at Emerald Bay and walk down to Vikingsholm for a lakeside picnic lunch. (I recommend the hike to Eagle Lake as well.) Back in the car to South Lake Tahoe, drive through town (heading east on Lake Tahoe Blvd./Hwy. 50) into Nevada, and check into a lakeside cabin at Zephyr Cove for 2 nights. Drink a mai tai at the beachside bar, and then drive back toward the casinos for either Italian food at Ivano's, or sushi at The Naked Fish. Spend the evening at the casinos.

Day 4: Gondola Ride & Lobster

Sleep in, have breakfast at Zephyr Cove Restaurant, then walk to the pier and board the MS Dixie II for a 2-hour cruise to Emerald Bay. Return to the beachside bar for another mai tai, and then relax at the gold-sand beach right in front of your cabin. If you can water-ski or wakeboard, consider renting a boat or jet ski. Around 4pm, hop in the car and head to the Heavenly Resort for a gondola ride to the viewing platform before sunset (wow). For dinner, drive to Fresh Ketch for oysters, steak, and lobster. Then win your money back at the casinos and/or see a show.

Day 5: Mono Lake & Yosemite

Today's itinerary entails lots of driving, so rise early, eat breakfast at Zephyr Cove Restaurant, gas up the car, and take the Kingsbury Grade to Highway 395 (it's a bit confusing to find, so bring a map). Head south to Mono Lake, spend an hour or so at the excellent Visitors Center, then head east on Hwy 120 into Yosemite National Park toward Yosemite Valley. Be sure to stretch your legs at Tuolumne Meadows and walk around a bit, admiring the view. If you can afford it, check into the legendary Ahwahnee Hotel for 2 nights; otherwise, stay at the Wawona Hotel or just outside the park entrance at my favorite place to stay in Yosemite, the Evergreen Lodge (a bit of a drive from Yosemite Valley but worth the trip). Dine at the hotel and call it a night.

Day 6: Tours, Biking, More Views & Alpenglow

Sleep in, eat breakfast at the hotel, and take the 2-hour Valley Floor Tour in an open-air tram. Next, rent bikes at Yosemite Lodge or Curry Village and ride the paved trail through the valley. When you return the bikes, purchase the Map and Guide to Yosemite Valley, which describes an assortment of hikes and short nature walks. Plan tomorrow's hike while you lunch at one of the cafes in Curry Village (although all are mediocre and overpriced). Save your energy for the long hike for tomorrow, and stroll eastward at a leisurely pace into the valley on the John Muir Trail along the Merced River toward Vernal falls -- one of the most scenic trails in Yosemite. Make sure you have a clear view of the valley at sunset to witness the alpenglow. Back to the hotel for dinner.

Day 7: Hiking & Drive Home

Rise early, catch a light breakfast, check out (but leave your luggage at the hotel), and unfold your Map and Guide to Yosemite Valley to see which hike best fits your schedule and endurance level. Some of my favorites are the Upper Yosemite Fall Trail (a real thigh-burner but very rewarding) or the Mist Trail to Nevada Falls. Alas, after your hike, it's time to head home. If you're heading to the Bay Area or Sacramento, take Highway 120 toward Groveland and follow the signs.